It is definitely asparagus season and although I won’t be seeing any local asparagus for a few more weeks, if you live somewhere south of me, you may already have them at your farmers’ market. Lucky.
Meanwhile, I will content myself with fat, prosperous-looking, organic asparagus flown in from California. I gravitate towards thicker asparagus because what they lack in elegance they more than make up for in flavor. Thick asparagus also stand up better to different cooking methods. You can grill and roast the big guys, not just steam them for a dainty asparagus vinaigrette. Or do what I do here: puree the heck out of ’em and make cool, refreshing asparagus soup.
This recipe is inspired by another Ottolenghi recipe, because that guy is a straight up mad genius. In his vegetarian cookbook Plenty, Ottolenghi has a recipe for what he calls Asparagus Vichyssoise. I liked the concept of a cold asparagus and potato soup but tweaked some of the ingredients — why leeks, Yotam? — and the technique to create this version, which I believe is a keeper.
Cold soups are a warm-weather staple at my house as they should be in your yours. Why? They have so many virtues. Can you make them in advance? Why yes. In fact, you should. Are they healthy? Certainly. Just stay away from the cream and use lots of vegetables. Are they easy enough for everyday, but elegant enough for company? This one sure is.
Asparagus soup strikes me as especially elegant because of its silky texture and pale green color. This version would make an outstanding first course for a spring dinner party. But because it is so easy, and takes advantage of a seasonal ingredient, you should not wait until you are expecting company to make it. You could easily make a batch of this soup on Sunday and enjoy as a prelude to it your family dinners all week long. Ooh! Fancy!
It is important to allow the soup to chill for several hours before tasting and adjusting the seasoning. The flavors will develop as the soup sits. Also, do not add the lemon juice until the end to retain that brightness and hit of acidity.
I like to garnish this soup with a dollop of plain yogurt or sour cream, a sprig of mint, and some freshly grated lemon zest. If you are fancy — and I think you are — reserve one or two of the thinnest asparagus in the bunch and shave the raw stalk with a vegetable peeler. Garnish each bowl of soup with a few curled or sliced shavings. Ooh! Cheffy!
- 1½ lbs. thick asparagus (approx. 2 bunches), woody ends trimmed
- 2 TB unsalted butter or olive oil
- 1 yellow onion, minced
- 1 lb waxy potatoes, such as Red Bliss or Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into chunks
- 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth
- ¾ cup buttermilk
- Salt and pepper, preferably white, to taste
- 1 lemon, zested and juiced
- Plain yogurt (optional) or sour cream
- Mint (optional)
- Bring a large skillet of salted water to boil. Cook the asparagus until tender, 5-8 minutes depending on thickness.
- Drain and immediately plunge into an ice water bath to stop the cooking. Drain again. Allow to dry and cut into two-inch pieces.
- In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the butter or olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté over medium-low heat until tender but do not allow to brown. (This is also known as "sweating" the onion.) Season with salt and pepper.
- Add the potato and cover with broth. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil.
- Turn down heat and simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are cooked through, about ten minutes.
- Add asparagus to the pot and stir to combine.
- Puree the mixture using an immersion blender OR, working in batches as necessary, transfer to a food processor or high-speed blender.
- Add the buttermilk and combine.
- Refrigerate the soup for several hours until cold. Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Prior to serving, add half the lemon juice and stir to combine.
- To serve, garnish with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream, a sprinkle of the lemon zest and a sprig of mint.
This looks so refreshing! Perfect for a hot summer day!