When I was growing up, my mother typically made dinners that had a protein, a starch and a vegetable. Dinner was always followed by a green salad. I realized recently that I almost never cook like that. Most of my dinners tend to be one-pot meals, like soups, stews, braises and casseroles. Perhaps I will serve bread or salad on the side. But I almost never make more than two dishes for one meal. I simply can’t abide having to juggle three things that are all ready at the same time.
A dish like these roasted root vegetables serves as a vegetable and a starch all in one. And once it goes in the oven, you do not have to think about it again until it is ready, making it the perfect side dish for a main course that requires your undivided attention. The other night, for example, I made roasted root vegetables as an accompaniment to veal scallopini with lemon and capers, a delicious dish — and a bit of a treat — that needs to be cooked just prior to serving. I was able to give the veal my full attention while the vegetables roasted away happily, softening and then turning brown and crisp in the oven.
Why duck fat? Honestly, need I answer? Duck fat gives these humble root vegetables an unparalleled flavor. Do not think that duck fat is a restaurant-only ingredient. You can easily find rendered duck fat at the butcher counter of a good grocery store. I keep mine in my freezer until needed and a little will last a long time.
Feel free to vary the root vegetables according to your family’s taste and what you have in your root cellar — okay, refrigerator, but wouldn’t it be fun if we did all have root cellars? You can use waxy potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, parsnips, winter squashes, onions, shallots and even funny, knobby things like celery root or rutabaga. Season with sturdy herbs like thyme or rosemary. And allow for at least an hour in the oven to give these hard roots time to soften.
If you find that your vegetables have gotten nice and tender but failed to turn brown and crisp around the edges, run them under the broiler for a few minutes. If they are starting to burn, keep the heat at 425. Want to turn this side dish into a main dish? Top for each portion with a fried egg. Now, there is a one-dish meal!
- 3.5 lbs mixed root vegetables, such as onion, shallots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squash, carrots, parsnips, and celery root, peeled and chopped into bite-sized pieces
- ⅓ cup rendered duck fat
- 1 TB chopped fresh rosemary
- 1½ tsp kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Preheat oven to 425.
- Place the duck fat in the bottom of a 3-quart baking dish and heat in the oven for 5 minutes.
- Remove dish from the oven. (The fat should be liquid by this point.)
- Add the vegetables to the baking dish and toss to coat with the fat. Sprinkle with rosemary and salt.
- Arrange vegetables in an even layer and return to the oven.
- Roast thirty minutes, stirring every ten minutes.
- Turn the heat up to 450 and roast an additional thirty minutes, again stirring every ten minutes.
- If the vegetable are soft but not browned and crisp, run them under a hot broiler for a few minutes.
- Adjust seasonings and serve.
