Did you know that November 23 is National Cranberry Day? I suppose it makes sense, being so close to Thanksgiving, which is cranberries time to shine. But I love to cook and bake with cranberries all winter long. In fact, I stock up on cranberries during the last few weeks of the Oak Park Farmers Market because these babies freeze like a dream. I keep a stash in my freezer to last me through until next fall.

Growing up, I always thought of cranberries as a New England crop. We used to visit the island of Nantucket every year when was a little girl and Nantucket is famous for its cranberry bogs. But when I moved to the Midwest, I was happy to learn that nearby Wisconsin has its own cranberry bogs and actually produces half of the U.S. cranberry crop. In fact, that’s where my farmers market cranberries come from. Really, cranberries just like cold climates.

I adore baking and canning with fresh cranberries. At $5 for a large container, cranberries are one of the cheaper fruits you find at the farmers market or even the grocery store. And, as I mentioned, these berries freeze very well, particularly since you are not likely to eat them raw, but rather use them for baking and cooking. Cranberries split during baking but still retain their shape in a very pleasing way. Cranberries pair well with oranges and another great fall fruit, apples. Experiment with an apple-cranberry cobbler or crisp and throw some orange zest in for good measure. Or, try this recipe for a Cranberry Buckle with a Blood Orange Glaze that I posted last year. Cranberries are tart, as I am sure you know, so this is not the time for low-sugar baking.

Of course, many of us only eat cranberries once a year at Thanksgiving. That’s fine too. Not everyone has to love this quintessentially American berry. But if you are buying that jellied cranberry sauce from a can, you are missing out on how good real cranberry sauce can be. For years, my mother bought fancy-sounding cranberry relishes and chutneys from her favorite gourmet markets for our Thanksgiving table — and one jar of the jellied stuff for my dad who had a soft spot for it. It was a bit of a family joke. But for the past few years, I’ve made a homemade cranberry sauce flavored with ginger and orange zest from fresh cranberries bought at the Oak Park Farmers Market and it’s better than any cranberry sauce from the store.

Although I make my cranberry sauce in late October or early November and can it for shelf-stability, you do not need to be a canner to make this recipe. Just make it closer to Thanksgiving and keep it in the refrigerator until your holiday dinner. This recipe makes four pints, which is more than one family needs, so if you do not plan to can the cranberry sauce, you can either give some away to your neighbors for their Thanksgiving tables or cut the recipe in half.

Of course, there is no rule saying that we can only eat cranberry sauce once a year. This sauce would be good on turkey sandwiches or roasted meats all year round. It would also make a fine accompaniment to a cheese tray. I can see it being delicious with a sharp cheddar, such as Cabot Coop Creamery’s Seriously Sharp Cheddar.